Monday, July 23, 2012

The Mountain, the Birds, and the Stars


DAY 13

Got out of the hotel around 9:30am heading for Devils Tower. Along the way we lost another quail. <sigh>

This part of the country is rolling hills, sure, but ultimately boring.

Coal mining here.

Just got into Moorcroft, which is the biggest town near DT. I feel like I’m making a pilgrimage. This one feels powerful even from a distance.

Just saw a pronghorn grazing by the side of the road. Kewl!

A lot of dead trees; evidence of old forest fires. The fire hazard scale is at its highest right now – in the red. Signs abound cautioning against throwing cigarettes or matches out of your car.

We see the tower off in the distance, a lone and very eccentric structure out here. There are other outcroppings but nothing quite like it.


Devil’s Tower is magnificent. It would be even more magnificent if there weren’t so many loudmouth tourists hanging around. Interestingly, there have, apparently, always been tourists here.  The natives visited and used it as a landmark, but didn’t hang around much. The white settlers even treated it (mostly) with respect. It has been, and will always be, a place to revere.

You can’t help but amazed at the sheer majesty of this piece of rock thrusting out of the ground. (It kind of looks like an incredibly large petrified tree stump.) While Yellowstone was our first national park, Devils Tower was our first natural national monument (thank you Teddy Roosevelt, again.)

 For those who don’t know, the geologic story is that there was an intrusion of magma from deep in the earth that never erupted (thus magma rather than lava). Over time the magma cooled and started fracturing.  The Belle Fourche River (pronounced ‘fish’ and meaning ‘beautiful fork’ in French) carved away at the landscape, slowly revealing what was to become the tower. There are very few of these types of geologic intrusions in the world.

Another amazing factoid is that the top of the tower used to be under miles of earth. Now it’s the tallest thing in sight.

No wonder the aliens in the movie used it as a landmark. Everyone else did. (And no, there have been no recorded sightings of UFO’s around the tower. What a shame L

Right now I’m sitting at the ladies latrine writing this while the battery is charging on the computer. About 5 feet away is a small bird sitting on the ground staring at me. At the campsite there was a robin sitting on the grill that didn’t move for at least 10 minutes, and I got within feet of it. In the tree above Animals’ bedding, a dove hung out for an extended time.

Only the prairie dogs seem to be skittish around people.

Btw, the little bird is apparently a new fledgling. He’s flown off now.

In the distance vultures are circling the tower. On the electric line above me the birds are blue (not sad - the color.) There are also some blackish birds with white spots. I’ll check out what they all are later.

Sad news; due to an unfortunate circumstance another quail has died, and we nearly lost another due to the heat. So now we are at five.

We are camping at the monument tonight; Animal outside and me in the van. (Yes, I’m still a wuss).

Even though there’s a good breeze we’re going to wait until after 8pm to do the hike. Hopefully most of the tourists will be gone.

Much as I’m glad we’ve come here, I’m sorry that it is one of the more popular destinations. The other places we’ve visited had very few people, and we were able to listen to nature rather than voices and machinery.


We did the right thing to wait. When we got to the parking lot only a few cars were there and very few people were setting off. We got to a split in the trail, and while everyone else went to the right we took the left-hand fork. On occasion we would run into people coming from the opposite direction and would nod in acknowledgement, but mostly it was quiet, which is what I was hoping for.

One other thing I had hoped for but had not known if it would be possible was a chance to actually touch the rock face. I got my opportunity, and I must say it was akin to a religious experience (another one! LOL)

(I cannot stress enough that if you are, at all, interested in nature, you MUST see this!)

Since we started so late we ended the hike at the very edge of full darkness, but the trail was clearly marked so no possibility of getting lost.

We drove back to the campsite and parked the van so I could see the mountain from inside. It was a moonless night but the sky was clear. The Milky Way was more evident than I’ve ever witnessed it before. We saw a few meteors zip by as well as a satellite or two. The mountain itself was a black silhouette, clearly outlined. And up on the face you could see the lights of crazy people who were ascending or descending in the dark. (Insanity – thy name is rock climber.)

Our campsite was only yards away from the Belle Fourche river. A. found her way to it and took a swim. I sat by it for a brief time but the mountain chill (I got cold!) finally drove me into the van. I went to sleep with the van door open watching the progression of the Big Dipper as it wheeled around the mountaintop.

Magic.

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